Market Day with the Mountain Tribes

October 03, 2019

We woke early and sat on our balcony looking out over the glorious gardens.  Across the valley, the mountains were topped with an ethereal mist.  Making them resemble a vista from a Lord of the Rings movie.

Finished with breakfast we met with our guide for our adventure.   We settled comfortably back in our car and set off for a journey to the high mountain markets of Cao Son.

Rising into the Mountains

As we drove higher and higher the landscape began to change.  We drove past isolated mountain homes, terraced fields and through tall pine forests.  It was breathtakingly beautiful, yet remote and distant at the same time.

Closer to the markets we noticed an intermittent stream of people also heading in our direction.   Some were on foot, some old bicycles and the wealthier ones on beat-up motorcycles.  Only open one day of the week, it is an important day for the hill tribes living in these remote areas.

Cao Son, Vietnam

Walking into Town

We stopped on the outskirts of town and went in on foot, over dirt tracks breathing the clear cold mountain air.  Children lined the road playing simple games with big smiles all over their faces, dodging the local dogs that were trying to join in.  The closer we got the hubbub of the market grew louder and so to our anticipation.  We could already see the almost fluorescent colors of the clothing many were wearing.

The market is based along one narrow street and filled with locals in their pulsatingly bright ethnic dress.  It was obvious this wasn’t just a chance to buy and sell goods, but an opportunity to meet with friends and family from around the area.  Wearing their best on this one day out was clearly important and they didn’t disappoint.

Can Son Market

A Sea of Smiles

We shuffled down the road, bustled by the many smiling people.  As we wandered past people they gave us huge grins and encouraged us to take their photograph and then show them.  We made slow but very cheerful progress.  It was obviously a day of great fun and excitement and we could feel their energy and happiness flowing all around.

The market is the only opportunity these hill tribe families get to shop.  Almost everything was available.  From farm animals and equipment, local foods that smelt fantastic, clothes, fruits, vegetables and much more.   This was a truly local market, but one on some sort of happy pills!

We passed 3 outdoor barbers.  Old men sat on small stools having their haircut while the family looked on chuckling.  Dad having his haircut was better than TV.   Not that they had a TV of course.

An Ocean of Color

Many of the women carried their small babies on their backs.  Sitting snugly, peering out at the commotion from their colorful handmade papoose, they were adorable.  All around was an ocean of varied colors and styles.  Our guide pointed out the various differences between the costumes.  From this, he identified each of the three different tribes.  He also bought some of the sticky, delicious fried dumplings for us to really spike our sugar levels.

When we got to the end of the market stalls we stepped out into blazing sunshine.  We hadn’t noticed but inside the market itself was quite dark.  Many sellers had used plastic sheeting to cover and protect their goods.  We were to busy enjoying the clamor and hullabaloo.

We nibbled our sweet cakes and washed them down with strong Vietnamese coffee.  It was a wonderful, and very rich, local morning snack. Watching from a little outside the market’s entrance, our guide told us more about the various hill peoples that were here, and a little of their history and the hard lives they live in this remote region close to the Chinese Border.

We headed back to absorb this amazing, smiling, vibrant atmosphere.   It was amusing to be greeted like old friends by people we met only 15 minutes before.  More pictures, more questions through our guide.  Many offers to sit a share some of the local corn whiskey they brewed themselves.

Corn Liquor and Water Buffalo

Almost out again into the sunlight, we were stopped by a wickedly smiling old man who stood directly in our path.  He wanted us to sit and share a drink with him and there was no way around it.  So we sat on tiny wooden boxes and accepted the small ceramic cups.  Filled with a yellowish liquid the aroma is certainly memorable if not altogether pleasant.  He also placed a plate of dried water buffalo meat before us to snack on

We clinked glasses and downed the fiery liquid.  It certainly opened your eyes!  As we nibbled on the buffalo jerky, we paid for his kindness by answering a stream of questions.  In turn, he answered ours.  We spent a very enjoyable 20 minutes (including another drink) learning first hand about his life in the mountains.

Life in a Local Village

Leaving the man to enjoy his drinks and snack, we drove on for a traditional hill tribes lunch at a local village restaurant.  After a small and tasty feast, we went on to explore more of the village and learn about their local lives, traditions, and customs.  Strolling amongst the houses we were greeted with the offer of small corn cakes and more whiskey.

These people, in their remote villages and homes, living a simple life, were some of the most generous and happy we had ever met. Many times we were invited in to sit and talk and even eat.  Our time alas was almost up.  We said goodbye to one local family we had joined for snacks and a drink and happily took their pictures.  We headed back through this inspirational countryside to Sapa.  This was truly a unique day.  The hill peoples and their market will always have a special place in my memories.  And many smiling pictures saved on my computer.