Tea Plantations, Hill Tribes and the Golden Triangle in Thailand

March 03, 2021

Having an English partner for many years has taught me to appreciate very good tea.  It has become our preferred morning drink over the years, replacing what was my usual coffee.

So while in Northen Thailand, it was on our bucket list to visit the tea plantations that had over the years sprawled across the hillsides.   These were in the cooler hill country of the northwest, so off we went.  Starting just after breakfast, with a guide and driver, we headed out of town and up into the mountains.

Tea Drinkers Paradise

After only about 30 minutes we reached the first, impressively large, tea plantation.  With its uncountable rows of fresh green tea bushes, carved along the sides of the hills, mountains rising behind, it was a beautiful sight.  Elegant and picturesque, we could see the workers’, baskets strapped onto their backs, snaking through the small, deep green, plantation rows.

Hopping out of the car we explored along these acres of tea.  The air is cooler here than it was back in town, and the peace and tranquility were captivating.  Our pace slowed considerably as we wandered aimlessly and took in the views.

Our guide, silently following us, bought us gently back to reality.  He suggested we walk up to the cafe area and try some of their teas and we happily agreed.

Tea and Cakes on the Deck

We sat on the wooden deck looking over the expansive plantation.  The menu had more than 16 different types of teas and listed various medicinal benefits of each.  We chose a sampling and settled in.

The teas and cakes came out and the fragrances of each were tantalizing.  Each was unique in the depth of their flavors, but all were fresh and delicious.  It was no surprise that this plantation supplies some of Thailands leading hotels and restaurants.  Over this sumptuous morning break, in the cool morning air, our guide told us more about the history of this area and especially our next stop, Mae Solong.

Tea-Doi Mae Solong Mountain.

Mae Solong

Mae Solong mountain is close to the Thai/Myanmar border and rises almost 4,500 feet above sea level.  We were going to visit the town of the same name, built along its ridge.  Unique in that this village is Yunnanese Chinese, established by the KMT in ’61 after they were expelled from Burma.

A Very Chinese Village in The Mountains of Thailand

We left our empty cups, and cake crumbed plates and started our climb along the very steep twisting road upwards.  When we arrived in the village it felt very strange, not as if we were in Thailand anymore.  Chinese lanterns were strung across the road in the center of the village, signs were in Chinese first, then Thai and English.  Even the syle of houses, shops, and restaurants in this small town had a distinctly Chinese feel.

The Chinese Martyrs Memorial Museum in Mae Salong, Chiang Rai, northern Thailand.

A Sublime Yunnanese Lunch

Sitting down at one of the local restaurants our guide translated the menu for us.  It only listed the meals in Chinese and Thai.  We ordered and the food was bought out quickly.  It looked amazing and tasted even better.

The pork fell off the bone with just a touch of my chopsticks.  The soft fluffy potatoes stir-fried with onions, chillis, and spices had us in raptures.  While the rice noodles in a rich chicken stock were packed with fresh herbs and vegetables to numerous a variety to count.

This was nothing at all like Thai food, but rather the traditional food and cooking methods of the Yunnanese.  We truly felt like we were in a small village in China, and that was fine with us!

Temple Views and Village Life

We had to relax for a while at the restaurant as we were so full of such great food.  Soon though we set off to explore the short main street.  There was a myriad of small, quaint stores along each side of the road.  Selling everything from handmade colorful clothes, local souvenirs and of course tea.  After that huge lunch, refreshing ourselves with tea was perfect.  We stopped at a stall and tried 2 or 3 different types and bought two of the loose leaf packets.

Getting back into the car we drove on only about 10 minutes, up a very steep section of road to stop at the local temple.  Here again, the style was very different from what he had seen in Thailand before.  Our guide, however, didn’t bring us here just for that.  Taking us through the temple we went through the open doors to look down upon the most amazing panoramic views.

We walked onto the small ornately decorated viewing platform and tried to take it all in.  Across the valleys to the hills in the far distance.  Down to the tea plantations and the rolling fields of corn swaying in the breeze, and the lush green rice fields.  The experience was made even more stupendous because this high mountain air was so cool and sweet.  We stood and gazed dreamily out, then circled the temple along its outside pathways.

Hill Tribes

From these wonderful views, we departed and went along to visit three of the local hill tribe villages.  All have their ancestral roots as Yunnanese, but each different village has its own different twist.  The way they were built, the clothes that they wore, something small but subtly significant set them apart.

We stopped in each village and our guide introduced us to some of the locals.  Smiling graciously every time, they stopped and answered our questions about their daily lives and the life of the village.  It wasn’t one way though, they had many questions for us!

Akha Ethnic People at Mae Salong Mountian, Chiang Rai, Thailand.

Meeting of 3 Lands

From these smiling and friendly villages, were ventured to the Golden Triangle.  Here the borders of Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos meet at the confluence of the mighty Mekong and the Ruak rivers.   Named the Golden Triangle by the CIA, it was once best known for the massive production of poppies.  These, in turn, were transformed into heroin and sold into the world markets.

Production has been almost fully eradicated in the last years, it still keeps that moniker.  Now though it is visited by many, like us, for the breathtaking views you can capture.

They were indeed stunning, and it was almost unnerving, that with a small quarter turn you could capture another country on film.  We wandered the rivers and noted the small multi-colored triangular signs with each point going in the direction of one of the countries.

What A Day

As we wrapped up our time standing at the hub of the three countries, each unique unto themselves we contemplated our day.  From the rich green tea plantations, the superb Yunnanese lunch, to the friendly hill villagers and breathtaking views.  A day starting at 1,200 feet, rising to over 4.500 and ending standing gazing over three countries without moving a step.  Quite an amazing day.