Vintage Cars and Ancient Cities
October 02, 2019
Arriving in Style
Nothing beats starting your exploration of the Ancient City of Angkor Thom by arriving in a luxury vintage car! Picked up from my hotel, I settle back and relax, feeling like minor Royalty, against the lush leather interior. My driver glides us smoothly through the somewhat crowded and fume-filled streets of Siem Reap. But all that is on the other side of the glass, I’m quite cool and comfortable on my side! We arrive in style in the clean and quiet heart of the Angkor Archeological Park.
Meeting a New Friend
Here I meet with my bicycle guide, and soon to be new friend, – Pisith. Always smiling and helpful, he gives me a briefing on the day ahead, and the bikes we’ll be riding. Making sure I’m comfortable with its features and the helmet he provides, we set off. Starting at the base of the towering, and a little daunting, Tonle Om (Southern) Gate. Apparently, it is one of five similar gates that are used to enter the ancient city ruins of Angkor Thom. Used by Khmer Kings of old after their successful return from battle. Two others are the aptly named Victory Gate, while a third is the slightly grimly named Death Gate; I’m a little glad we didn’t start the day at that one!
Angkor Thom, or Great City, is a sprawling 9 square kilometers in size. Surrounded by daunting 8 meter high walls and wide moats, the city dates back to the 12th century. With Pisith leading, we uncover and explore the trails at a leisurely pace. Stopping often to swallow mouthfuls of cold water he had bought along.
The Temples Emerge
We ride quietly along the flat dirt pathways, under the lush green jungle canopy. I find I have a childlike delight seeing all the families of monkeys playing by the sides of the trails and in the trees. Then we suddenly break from the jungle canopy and before us are the many faces that make up the Bayon Temple, known as the “Smile of Angkor”. Pisith grins at the shock and wonderment he sees pass across my, slightly flushed, face. He planned this! It is obvious he likes to have fun but is also intensely proud of his country and its history. And he is very happy to share his sense of fun and great knowledge with me.
This temple is at the very center of Angkor Thom. With its three levels soaring over 40 meters into the sky, the temple has massive gothic towers with literally hundreds of beautifully and painstaking sculptured smiling faces greeting us both as we enter and explore. I find myself just wandering around, silently, almost reverently. There are no words to describe the peace and awe that I felt.
From here we ride along the Terrace of the Elephants, used apparently as a Ceremonial Platform for the King for commissioned it, so he could review his victorious armies as they return from battles. By this time, hunger had set in, and we relaxed by a water-filled pool, used apparently as The Royal Bathing Pool. At over 700 meters wide, that’s a big bath! The food is delicious, full of fresh herbs, and flavors and scents that seem to burst in my mouth. Then, in the shade of the trees, lying on the grass, time for a small nap.
A Little Hollywood in Temple Town
Riding around the trails of Angkor Thom, peacefully exploring through the jungles, discovering the ancient city and its ruins at our own pace, was something truly special. Ta Phrom which I remember from the “Tombraider” movie, with the massive trees growing out of its roof and sandstone walls, and the many other ruins and ancient temples I got to visit. All the while seeing so few other tourists – that was a huge bonus.
Just Floating Around
At the end of our two-wheeled exploration, we rode to the Boat Pier, along the outer edge of Angkor Thom. Here I had to say goodbye to my friend, as he was taking the bikes back into town. I got to climb aboard a traditional Cambodian styled gondola, with its own smiling guide. Taking a cold beer I settled back, enjoyed the Cambodian Canapés provided and waited for the sun to close over the day.
Drifting past the small boat were brightly colored lotus flowers resting atop the water, and a heavy rich perfume filled the air. Apparently, according to my gondolier, this came from the Rumduol flower. The colorful national flower of Cambodia that grows wild along the banks.
As I watch the last rays of golden sun set over the temple complex, I am able to get some truly awesome photos. The memories of this day are simply irreplaceable.
At the end of my boat trip, there was my driver, waiting. Vintage car and soft leather seats, ready for my return back to Siem Reap. Royalty once again…
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